A contemporary of Fleury who broke with clichés about identity and sexuality early on, as well as the distinction between autonomous and free work, fashion and art is Paul Kooiker (1964, Rotterdam).
If commissioned photography hangs in a museum,
the difference with autonomous work no longer exists.
Paul Kooiker, De Volkskrant, 08.12.202 (interview: Karolien Knols)Although a sought-after photographer in the fashion world – working for leading American fashion designer Rick Owens as early as 2012 – he seems completely detached from the prevailing beauty paradigms. And although Kooiker initially knew nothing about fashion, he gets on well with ground-breaking fashion designers like Owens because of their mutual interest in experimenting, which can only lead to new insights into art and fashion and new definitions of beauty.
Intimate and anonymous,
twisting in every direction,
that’s when things get interesting.
Paul KooikerIn his photography, Kooiker creates a kind of uneasy beauty based on dark desires, fetishism and subconscious dreams that are so close to the surface that there is no escaping them. He conducts research into the human body and postures in which he – much like a sculptor – kneads the body into a sculpture. In doing so, he transcends traditional gender roles and even uses real hair and wigs. Kooiker explains, “The hair is in a different world than the body. Hair also often takes on a life of its own in my work, as do legs, arms and hands.”
Represented by tegenboschvanvreden