10 march 2025, Wouter van den Eijkel
The studio of... Yamuna Forzani
Emancipation, queer identity and self-expression run like a common thread through the work of Yamuna Forzani. After graduating from the Royal Academy of Art in The Hague, Forzani worked in the fashion industry for some time, but was put off by the toxic work environment. She decided to create work with and for the queer community. At Art Rotterdam, Rademakers Gallery is presenting Forzani’s latest project, 'Symbols of Utopia', a series of wall tapestries designed in collaboration with feminist typographer Céline Hurka. Together they explore the power of typography and textiles as a means of expression.
In addition to her artistic practice, Yamuna Forzani plays an active role in the ballroom scene, where self-expression and togetherness come together. Through collaboration with other artists and initiatives like the Utopia Ball x Fashion Show, she is committed to creating an inclusive and safe environment. Her ultimate goal? A queer utopia in which art, identity and community converge in a celebration of freedom and creativity.
Rademakers Gallery will be presenting the work of Yamuna Forzani at Art Rotterdam (27-30 March). The group exhibition 'Over the Rainbow' opens on 16 April at Rademakers Gallery in Weesp. On 19 April, Forzani will be giving a performance at the gallery.
Yamuna Forzani in her studio. Photo: Sophie van Veen | Loods 6
Where is your studio and what does it look like?
My studio is at Loods6 in Amsterdam East in a beautiful building filled with lots of other creatives and businesses. I have tall ceilings and big windows and the best part about my studio is that it is in front of a big tree where lots of parrots hang out, and they even come to my window!
What is an absolute requirement for a good studio space for you?
Space!! Because my work is developing, it's growing bigger in size and I feel like space is difficult to find in Amsterdam.
Suppose I were to do an internship with you for a few weeks. What would an average working day look like?
I pride myself in saying that an internship with me is highly varied! No two days are the same because my work is multifaceted. From working in the lab at the Textile Museum in Tilburg to creating exhibitions on location, making costumes for performers and dancers, embroidering tapestries and going to meetings and organising events, it's always dynamic and I love it.
You graduated with a degree in fashion from the Royal Academy of Art. Did you immediately realise that fashion, politics and emancipation were related themes?
I think that fashion, politics and emancipation are deeply interlinked because fashion is a way we communicate our identities and self-expression with the world. In my work, emancipation is my greatest motivation. When I dress people and see how it cheers them up, makes them feel beautiful and celebrated, I feel a surge of energy!
Detail from the studio of Yamuna Forzani. Photo: Sophie van Veen | Loods 6
On your website, you call yourself a queer activist. You collaborate a lot with other artists and organise events, including the annual Utopia Ball x Fashion Show. How did that come about and what do you want to achieve with this platform?
I have a fashion background, but after experiencing the industry's toxic work ethic, elitism and unachievable beauty standards, I wanted to create something different, something for my community by my community.
I worked a lot in nightlife and through my involvement in the ballroom scene (an underground queer community that emerged in 1980s New York), I saw an opportunity to combine the elements I loved most: the energy of a traditional ball competition and the creativity of a fashion show.
In 2018, I debuted my latest collection in this format, at The Grey Space in the Middle in The Hague and over the years, it evolved into a platform that invited other designers from the scene to showcase their work on their own terms. Some designers had their models dance down the runway, while one even had a model recite poetry. It has become an incredible way to highlight and celebrate the immense talent within our community.
You are also part of two Houses in the national and international ballroom scene. For those who have not seen the documentary Paris is Burning, can you explain what that is?
I am part of the Kiki House of Angels in the Netherlands and an international member of the House of Comme Des Garçons, representing the Netherlands in the ballroom scene. For those unfamiliar with ballroom culture, it’s an underground queer community that originated in 1980s New York, created by Black and Latinx LGBTQ+ individuals as a space for self-expression, belonging and resistance against societal oppression. The documentary Paris is Burning captures the essence of this world in which chosen families, called Houses, compete in elaborate categories the combine fashion, performance and identity.
Ballroom was birthed by trans women of colour, also known as Femme Queens, and I owe everything to them. The Femme Queens in this community have taught me to love myself, to embrace my femininity and to take up space in a way I never had before. I look up to them immensely and it breaks my heart to see how, as a society, we have continually let trans folk down. The world is becoming more hateful, more right-wing and now more than ever, we need safe spaces like ballroom — where people can be themselves without fear, where queer joy is celebrated and where chosen families uplift one another.
Yamuna Forzani at work in her studio. Photo: Sophie van Veen | Loods 6
Why did you want to become a part of this?
What I love most about being in the scene is that I can truly experiment with making creations, outfits and my own self-expression as a queer woman. Ballroom gave me the self-confidence I was lacking after coming from the toxic fashion industry and art school. When I went to my first ball, I instantly fell in love with the energy, the people and the sheer freedom of it all. It felt like home.
I do fashion categories such as Designer’s Delight, Best Dressed, Bizarre and Nails Affair, each of which allows me to push creative boundaries and express different sides of myself. I’ve also been dressing people in the scene for over nine years and I consider it an honour to contribute to a culture that has given me so much. As a white cis woman, I know that I am a guest in this community and I never take for granted the fact that I have been welcomed in. Ballroom has shaped who I am and I am endlessly grateful to the legends and pioneers who built this space for us to thrive.
I think everyone should see Paris is Burning, which you can actually find for free on YouTube. It’s such an important part of queer history and gives real insight into where ballroom came from and why it exists. For those looking for more, Pose on Netflix is also incredible and for a more modern take, Legendary on HBO showcases ballroom in a competition format. These shows are great ways to learn about and appreciate the culture that has influenced so much of today’s fashion, music and queer identity.
Rademakers Gallery is presenting your work at Art Rotterdam. What series will we be seeing in Rotterdam?
At Art Rotterdam, Rademakers Gallery will be presenting three large-scale tapestries that mark the first editions of an expansive project: 'Symbols of Utopia' — a collaborative series with feminist type designer Céline Hurka.
The first editions are called 'Dreams', which combine typography and textile, intertwining symbolic characters and snippets of text derived from odes on the digital platform Women of Amsterdam. This tapestry is the first result of our broader artistic research into the intersection of queer identity, gender and language. Céline and I explored archives and museum collections, including those of the Amsterdam Museum, to uncover works and symbolism by female makers. We found inspiration in historical objects, such as needlework samplers and banners, using them as a foundation for developing new, inclusive typefaces.
'Symbols of Utopia' is a celebration of dreams, gender and queer identity expressed through letterforms, symbols, ornaments and textile-based installations. Beyond its visual impact, the project reflects on the importance of female collaboration and friendship in the arts.
These works were developed and produced at the TextielMuseum with technician Mathilde Vandenbussche and assisted by Mari Ebisu. The research was generously supported by the Design Starter grant from the Stimuleringsfonds.
Yamuna Forzani in her studio. Photo: Sophie van Veen | Loods 6
Normally, I ask what kind of project you would carry out if I were to give you carte blanche. But in your case, it seems pretty clear to me: you are working towards a queer utopia. How do you envision this?
I am already working on this — it’s my life's work. Creating my queer utopia is the motivation for everything I do and right now, the 'Symbols of Utopia' series is one of the most exciting and fulfilling projects I’ve ever worked on. What makes it so special is how it's based on academic research and collaboration with museums and archives. Each tapestry tells a different story, weaving together history, symbolism and queerness in a way that allows us to truly take our time and honour the research process.
Diving into archives, uncovering forgotten narratives and translating them into something new feels incredibly meaningful. On a technical level, working with the TextielMuseum to push the boundaries of the circular knitting machine and develop these 3D-knitted tapestries has been so exciting and fulfilling. It really feels like I’m levelling up, both in terms of craftsmanship and artistic exploration.
Our dream is to eventually present the entire series in a large-scale duo exhibition showcasing all seven tapestries in an immersive space with a soundscape, performances and costumes that bring the world of 'Symbols of Utopia' to life. And this is only the beginning. We already have international collaborators in the pipeline who will take the project even further. So, stay tuned!
You are part of the 'Over the Rainbow' group exhibition that is opening at Rademakers Gallery on 19 April. What can we expect?
At the opening, you can expect to see a vibrant and colourful display of my work: framed pieces in various sizes, bold knitted tapestries and even a big bed covered in pillows!
I'm especially excited to be part of this show alongside other incredible female artists, such as Julia Kiryanova and Anne von Freyburg, whose work I really admire. And of course, I’m really looking forward to the opening on 19 April, where there will be live performances and my absolute favourite DJ, Eurowitch, so I hope to see you there!
